I have wanted to review this watch since I first saw it featured in a popular YouTube video about 7–8 years ago. I won’t delve into the history of Squale or the controversies surrounding the brand within the watch community, as that has been covered in a separate article on my blog. However, before beginning the review, I would like to extend my gratitude to the marketing team at Squale for lending me this beautiful timepiece.

I chose the Squale 2002 primarily for its distinctive case shape, which I find particularly appealing. Additionally, there is already a wealth of reviews available for other Squale models, making this one a unique subject for discussion.

The watch arrived in a blue, vinyl-wrapped clamshell box. It came fitted on a tropic rubber strap, but Squale also included the shark mesh bracelet for testing. My initial impression of the packaging was underwhelming; it does not exude the premium feel expected from a watch priced above €1,000. It is reminiscent of packaging from more affordable watches found on AliExpress. I personally preferred Squale’s previous packaging, which included a watch roll. Not only was this a more sustainable option, reducing excess cardboard waste, but it was also practical for travel.

Upon first seeing the watch in person, I was genuinely impressed. The blue dial, unique case shape, and polished surfaces create a striking vintage-inspired aesthetic reminiscent of the 1970s. The watch also has a substantial heft, which I attribute to its impressive 101 ATM water resistance rating.

The case is crafted from 316L stainless steel and maintains the same egg-like shape with hidden lugs as the original model from the 1960s. As expected from a Swiss-made timepiece, the finishing is excellent. The entire case is high-polished, consistent with the original design, though I personally believe brushed sides would have been more practical given its tool-watch nature. However, Squale has opted to remain faithful to the vintage aesthetic.

The case dimensions are as follows: Diameter: 45mm. Lug-to-lug: 52mm. Thickness: 16mm. Lug width: 22mm. Despite its large specifications, the watch wears slightly smaller on the wrist, feeling closer to a 42–43mm diver. However, its thickness is notable, making it sit quite high on the wrist. A slimmer profile would have been preferable. At the 4:30 position, the watch features a signed screw-down crown bearing the Von Büren family crest. The crown action is solid, and even my watchmaker noted its high-quality construction at this price point. It screws in smoothly and securely, ensuring the promised 1,000-meter water resistance. At the 9 o’clock position, an automatic helium escape valve is present, reinforcing the watch’s professional dive credentials.

One of the standout features of the original Squale 101 Atmos was its unique bezel design, which Squale has wisely preserved over the years. The bezel spans the entire 45mm case width and features a broad insert area. The polished steel edge has a wide-tooth grip, making it easy to operate.

The bezel mechanism is unconventional, incorporating a locking system that requires downward pressure before rotating. This allows for quick adjustments with minimal resistance, though it still “clicks” into place upon release. While this system prevents accidental rotation, I noticed that the bezel can still be turned without pressing down. Forum discussions suggest that doing so may risk damaging the internal spring, which could result in the bezel detaching.

The bezel insert is now made of sapphire, replacing the previously used bakelite. A few years ago, Squale was one of the few brands still utilizing bakelite for their bezels, making this change somewhat disappointing from a heritage standpoint.

The watch features a flat sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective (AR) coating. However, the AR coating could be improved, as visibility in direct sunlight can sometimes be compromised.

The screw-down case back is particularly thick, featuring a distinct “bubble back” shape. It is engraved with a wave pattern, the Squale shark logo (fun fact: “Squale” means “Shark” in Italian), the watch reference number, and various specifications.

The dial is where Squale truly excels. Their ability to create a stunning blue sunburst dial is impressive, reminiscent of Panerai’s renowned blue dials. The dial color shifts depending on lighting conditions—from bright blue in direct sunlight to nearly black in the shade.

The applied, multi-faceted polished hour markers enhance the retro aesthetic. The minute track features luminescent markers at each hour. At 12 o’clock, the Squale logo and von Büren family crest are printed in white. The Squale shark logo, water resistance rating, and watch reference are positioned at 6 o’clock, with “Swiss Made” subtly printed at the bottom edge.

A signature Squale design element is the bright fluorescent orange minute hand, which serves both an aesthetic and functional purpose—orange remains highly visible underwater, whereas colors like black or red tend to fade. The hour and seconds hands are white, with the latter featuring a rectangular lumed detail, reinforcing the 1970s-inspired design. A framed date window at 3 o’clock houses a white date wheel, which I appreciate for its legibility and adherence to professional dive watch conventions.

Inside the watch beats the Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, offering approximately 38 hours of power reserve with a 4Hz beat rate. It features 26 jewels and is a direct competitor to the ETA 2824.

However, my experience working in a full-service watch center has made me skeptical of Sellita’s reliability. We frequently see watches with SW200 movements requiring repairs due to factory defects or mechanical failures. While it is a viable alternative to ETA, I would have preferred an ETA 2824, given its superior finishing and durability. That being said, replacing the movement with an ETA 2824 is always an option if you want.

The watch comes on a tropic rubber strap, which is well-made and comfortable, featuring an aggressive taper from 22mm to 16mm. With this strap, the watch wears noticeably smaller than on the provided shark mesh bracelet

The shark mesh bracelet is robust and features removable links for size adjustment. While the edges of the links could be better finished, the overall quality is acceptable. However, the bracelet lacks a diver’s extension, which is surprising for a professional dive watch. The milled clasp has a polished finish, which, while visually appealing, is highly prone to scratches. Given its €211 price tag (including VAT), I would recommend exploring alternative mesh bracelets from Germany or Switzerland, or even more affordable options from AliExpress.

Overall, I really like the Squale 2002. It is a robust, well-built watch that looks and feels more expensive than its price suggests. While the brand’s reputation has changed over the years and quality control concerns exist, I firmly believe in buying what you personally enjoy rather than following popular opinion.

This is not a perfect dive watch—the movement is subpar, the company has a somewhat controversial reputation, and there are occasional QC issues. However, despite these drawbacks, I genuinely enjoy this watch. Many owners speak highly of it, and much of the criticism comes from those who have neither handled nor tested it.

Would I recommend it? If you have €1,890 (inluding VAT) and appreciate the design and heritage, then yes—you will not be disappointed.

Price: 1890€ (inluding VAT) @ squale.ch