When it comes to horological complications, microbrands often play it safe. Most offerings are limited to time-only models, standard date windows, or the occasional chronograph. The primary reason for this constraint is simple: mechanical complexity is expensive. Designing and manufacturing an in-house module—or worse, a full in-house caliber—can be financially unfeasible for smaller brands. But times are changing. In recent years, we’ve seen a small but impactful group of forward-thinking microbrands like Behrens, Loresum, and Angles shatter expectations, producing genuinely innovative watches that rival six-figure haute horology creations in concept and execution.
Today’s spotlight is on the Angles “Chain of Time“, a mechanical marvel that visualizes the passing hours through an actual moving chain. Yes—a working chain mechanism driven by gears at 12 and 6 o’clock that guides a pointer along the dial’s periphery. It’s a poetic, sculptural take on timekeeping rarely seen outside ultra-luxury circles. And yet, this piece retails for just $2,990—a sum that, while not “budget,” is incredibly modest given the ambition and engineering on display here.
Angles is an Asia-based brand with its sights firmly set on global horological relevance. Each “Chain of Time” model is produced to Swiss standards, powered by a Swiss movement, and is strictly limited to 20 pieces per dial color. Options include white, green, blue, grey, and black—the latter featuring a PVD-coated case for added contrast. For this review, I went hands-on with the grey dial variant, which I personally find the most versatile and elegant of the lineup. Though I must admit, a deep purple colourway version would be a dream if they ever release one!
A big thanks to Angles for providing this timepiece on loan for review—it arrived without its retail box (as press samples often do), but my expectations are high given how striking the watch is right out of the packaging.). If you get one, it will come in a proper box with all the documentation.
From the moment I unwrapped it, my first reaction was simple: “Wow“. It’s a striking watch—visually arresting in a way that photos simply don’t capture. Its case is large, no question, measuring 41mm wide by 49.5mm tall, extending to 58mm when including the crown. Thickness stands at 15.5mm, with a generous 6mm taken up by the domed sapphire crystal alone. And yet, it wears better than the numbers suggest. Thanks to the curved caseback and integrated lugless strap design, the Chain of Time sits low and comfortable on my 18cm wrist.
The highly domed sapphire crystal absolutely deserves its own recognition. Custom-cut to perfectly complement the watch’s distinctive display, it’s not only a visually striking component but also an expensive one to produce. This isn’t a standard off-the-shelf crystal — it’s uniquely shaped, making it virtually irreplaceable through conventional means. Should it ever suffer damage, especially a decade or more after purchase, sourcing a replacement could be extremely difficult, if not impossible. Given that this is a limited edition piece from a small independent brand, once the production run is sold out, parts availability may become a real concern. It’s a trade-off that comes with owning something rare and exclusive — a beautiful risk, but one worth considering for long-term collectors.
Crafted from stainless steel, the case blends barrel and square case shapes, finished in fine satin brushing with tasteful polished accents. At 6 o’clock, you’ll find the crown—reminiscent of aviation-style pilot watches, adorned with the Angles logo. The solid caseback mirrors the front’s design philosophy, featuring a detailed engraving of the chain display and the model name, along with key specifications and individual limited edition numbering.
With only 30 meters (3 ATM) of water resistance, this isn’t a watch for aquatic adventures, but it’s more than capable of withstanding daily wear and splashes. At 129 grams, it’s surprisingly light for its size, adding to its comfort on the wrist.
Let’s be honest—the dial is why you’re here. The “Chain of Time” lives up to its name with a mesmerizing display powered by a real mechanical chain that moves along the outer dial. Anchored by two visible gears at 12 and 6 o’clock, the chain carries a small hand that completes a full 24-hour rotation to indicate the hour. Minutes are displayed conventionally via the gear at 6 o’clock, but again, this is more poetic than precise. Telling time to the exact minute isn’t the point—it’s about appreciating the kinetic sculpture in motion.
The grey dial version sports a refined linear texture that plays beautifully with light, adding depth and subtlety beneath the kinetic display. Only the top half of the hour markers (from 6 PM to 6 AM) are lumed, treated with Swiss Super-LumiNova® C3 for visibility in darkness. These markers receive ten separate layers of lume, ensuring brightness and longevity.
Under the hood is the Sellita SW220-1, a 26-jewel automatic Swiss movement known for its durability and widespread serviceability. With a power reserve of 38 hours and a beat rate of 28,800 bph, it provides smooth, reliable timekeeping. Angles takes things a step further, regulating the movement in five positions to ensure precision around +/-10 seconds per day—my review unit performed even better at around +3 to +4 seconds/day. What truly elevates this piece, however, is the in-house complication module developed by Angles to drive the chain mechanism. Integration is seamless, and the fit and finish rival that of watches ten times its price.
The Chain of Time comes fitted with a genuine crocodile strap, dyed grey to match the dial and featuring subtle gloss and stitching for durability. The underside is lined with soft cream-colored leather, and the strap is curved to fit flush with the case using custom spring bars. While beautifully made, its non-standard shape means replacements will need to be custom-ordered—a minor drawback for long-term ownership.
The folding clasp is crafted from milled stainless steel, finished in a clean satin brushing and engraved with the Angles logo. While the build quality is excellent and aligns with the watch’s overall premium feel, a touch of polishing along the edges would have elevated the visual appeal further, adding an extra layer of refinement to complement the unique design language of the timepiece. The only notable drawback lies in the strap adjustment holes, which are slightly oversized. This occasionally allows the strap to slip out of the clasp when removing the watch — a minor usability concern that could benefit from refinement in future iterations.
The Angles Chain of Time is an outstanding example of what a microbrand can achieve with bold vision and high craftsmanship. It’s a conversation piece, a mechanical sculpture, and a testament to how far independent brands have come in recent years. Despite some minor quirks—like the strap sizing and limited water resistance—there’s no denying the value, innovation, and presence this watch offers. For those looking to add something truly unique to their collection—whether you’re a seasoned collector or simply someone who appreciates mechanical artistry—the Chain of Time is a compelling and emotionally rewarding timepiece!
KaminskyBlog 