Today, I’m excited to share my thoughts on a truly fascinating timepiece that I’ve been eager to review for quite some time — the Red Star Bullhead Chronograph. This watch is undoubtedly one of the most recognizable and celebrated models in Red Star’s lineup, and for good reason. Its design draws strong inspiration from the iconic bullhead chronographs of the 1970s, such as those from Seiko and Citizen, and to a certain extent, Omega and various smaller brands that experimented with bold, asymmetrical case shapes during that era. It’s a design ethos that evokes both nostalgia and admiration, and it’s rather puzzling why more brands have stepped away from these daring case styles, especially now, when vintage aesthetics are at their height in popularity.
Red Star as a brand still holds a bit of mystery. It was established by Thomas Leung, a former watchmaker at Sea-Gull — one of China’s most prominent and historic watch manufacturers. Leveraging his experience and passion, Leung set out to create timepieces that combined traditional Chinese horology with modern appeal. Within a relatively short span, Red Star has risen to prominence in the affordable mechanical watch segment, particularly among collectors who value character, design, and mechanical integrity over brand prestige. Much of this accessibility can be attributed to platforms like AliExpress, which have become go-to destinations for discovering high-quality, unique Chinese watches priced under $300.
Special thanks to Jun from good-stuffs.com for generously providing this timepiece for review. His store offers an extensive selection of Chinese watches, including models from Sea-Gull, Red Star, Fiyta, Vager Hauers, and numerous lesser-known to me, but equally intriguing chinese brands. The price range is impressive, starting as low as $50 and stretching up to over $2,000, covering everything from entry-level mechanical pieces to serious collector-grade models.
For this review, I selected the brown dial variant of the Bullhead, though it is also available in blue and khaki. At a retail price of just $235, the package includes not only the watch itself but also a metal bracelet, a leather strap, a spring bar tool, and extra spring bars — excellent value for what’s offered. The watch arrived in a simple cardboard box bearing the Red Star logo. While the packaging is minimal and utilitarian, even evoking a bit of a “Communist-era” aesthetic, it gets the job done.
Upon opening the box, my initial reaction was one of pleasant surprise. The Bullhead immediately gives the impression of a much more expensive watch. The brown dial, highlighted by gold-tone square subdials and housed in the distinctive bullhead case, delivers a striking visual impact. The retro inspiration is unmistakable, and as someone who deeply appreciates 1970s watch designs, I was genuinely impressed.
The case is constructed from 316L stainless steel and measures 42mm in diameter, with a lug-to-lug length of 45mm and a thickness of 12.7mm. On paper, the watch may seem large, but due to its unique configuration — including hidden lugs and the crown and pushers located at 12 o’clock — it wears more like a compact 39mm on my 18cm wrist. The finishing on the case is quite remarkable at this price point, with satin-brushed sides and a polished top that reflect light beautifully, reinforcing the vintage aesthetic. The watch features a fixed brown tachymeter bezel with a lume pip at 12, adding both functionality and a touch of flair.
At 12 o’clock is a large pilot-style crown, signed with the Red Star emblem, flanked by chronograph pushers at 11 and 1 o’clock. The watch features a double-domed mineral crystal with anti-reflective coating on the front, and a flat mineral exhibition case back. While sapphire would be ideal, especially for scratch resistance, it’s understandable that concessions were made to maintain the aggressive pricing. Water resistance is 50m (5 ATM) which is more than enough for daily wear.
The dial is undoubtedly the showstopper. The rich, matte brown sunburst surface pairs beautifully with the applied gold-tone chronograph subdials, located at 12 and 6 o’clock. Hour markers are applied and filled with lume, though the luminous performance is relatively short-lived — around 15 minutes of glow, based on my experience. The hour and minute hands feature black bases with white luminous tips, while the chronograph seconds hand is rendered in a vibrant orange, adding a burst of retro color. The Red Star logo at 3 o’clock is a nice finishing touch that completes the composition.
Powering the Bullhead is the venerable Sea-Gull ST19 — a hand-wound, column wheel chronograph movement based on the vintage Venus 175 design. This movement has earned a reputation for being one of the most accessible and reliable column wheel chronograph calibers on the market. It beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour, features 21 jewels, and offers a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. This exact ST19 variant also features the swan neck regulator which in theory gives you a more precise/fine regulation and keeps the screw in place, but in reality it is just for bragging and looks if you look at it from a watchmakers point. I’ve owned an ST19-equipped watch for nearly a decade, and it still performs within five seconds per day with excellent amplitude — a testament to the movement’s robustness.
The bracelet, however, is a bit of a letdown. It’s a three-link design with polished center links and brushed outer links, assembled with push pins and fitted with a stamped clasp. The overall construction feels cheap and rattly — reminiscent of aftermarket bracelets found on budget watches. That said, it is surprisingly comfortable on the wrist and does include three micro-adjustments for a better fit. Thankfully, Red Star also includes a high-quality brown leather strap with quick-release spring bars (though oddly, only one side had the quick-release mechanism). The strap is soft, features edge stitching, and is paired with a signed Panerai-style buckle — a significantly better option in terms of comfort and aesthetics.
In conclusion, the Red Star Bullhead represents exceptional value for enthusiasts who appreciate vintage 70’s chronograph design, mechanical movements, and character-rich watches that punch above their price class. While the bracelet leaves much to be desired, the rest of the watch — from its case finishing to its stunning dial and mechanical movement — offers far more than what its modest price tag suggests. If you’re looking for something off the beaten path that combines heritage, style, and affordability, the Bullhead is certainly worth a closer look.
KaminskyBlog 