Today, we turn our attention to an intriguing offering from Tandorio: the TD225, simply titled the “Serica Watch.” Unlike the endless wave of Seiko and Rolex homages saturating the market, this piece stands out by paying tribute to the distinctive design ethos of Serica, a relatively new but highly respected brand in the microbrand watch space. I opted to review this model primarily because it offers something refreshingly different, and secondly because I have always admired Serica’s approach to minimalist, functional, yet stylish watchmaking.
The watch arrived in minimalist fashion, housed in a simple cardboard box containing only the watch itself and a basic instruction manual. Personally, I appreciate this no-frills packaging approach. Not only is it environmentally friendly and easy to recycle, but it also reflects a thoughtful cost-saving measure. At this price point, I would rather the manufacturer invest resources into the product itself rather than elaborate packaging that will be discarded. My initial impressions of the TD225 were largely positive, though not without a few caveats. The case finishing immediately impressed me; it feels sturdy and well-crafted. However, the bracelet left a lot to be desired, feeling unfinished and rough to the touch. That said, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the bezel was properly aligned with the dial — something that cannot be taken for granted even at much higher price points.
Speaking of price, the TD225 comes in at $146.02. While slightly more expensive than the Tandorio TD269, which was their homage to the Doxa Sub 300, it is still remarkable how manufacturers based in China manage to offer this level of specification and finishing for such a competitive price.
Diving into the specifications, the case dimensions are well thought out. Measuring 40mm in diameter with a thickness of 13.8mm and a lug-to-lug span of 48mm, the watch strikes a harmonious balance between presence and wearability. It fits comfortably on a variety of wrist sizes, making it a versatile daily wear option. The stainless steel case features brushed sides and a polished fixed bezel, offering a subtle blend of utilitarian durability and polished sophistication.
One of the standout features of the TD225 is the 200-meter water resistance rating, achieved through a screw-down crown and a robust caseback design. The unidirectional rotating bezel with 120 distinct clicks operates smoothly and precisely, providing the tactile feedback you would expect from a competent dive watch. There is no play in the bezel, and the click action feels satisfyingly crisp. Desk divers and actual divers alike will appreciate the ease with which timing can be tracked. Protecting the dial is a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. However, something about the clarity of the crystal seems slightly off. There’s a subtle haze that is not typical of high-quality sapphire. Whether this is due to the crystal’s shape, a lower-grade AR coating, or simply my own critical eye remains up for debate.
For my particular model, I selected the blue fumé dial version, prominently featuring the Tandorio logo at the top. A variety of color and design options are available, but the rich gradient effect of the blue fumé stood out to me. It offers an outstanding balance of legibility and style. The dial is paired with white luminous markers, providing excellent contrast and ensuring that readability is not compromised even in low-light situations.
The handset is thoughtfully executed. The hour hand is black and arrow-shaped, filled with lume for nighttime visibility. The minute hand is sword-shaped and similarly lumed, while the seconds hand features a lumed lollipop tip. The use of Super-LumiNova across the hands and markers results in a watch that glows strongly and consistently in the dark. Although the lume may not rival bigger brands, it is certainly more than adequate for a watch at this price point.
A notable design choice — and one that I personally appreciate — is the omission of a date window. When rotating through a collection of several watches, setting the date can become a tedious task. By eliminating the date complication, Tandorio keeps the dial clean, symmetrical, and hassle-free.
Powering the TD225 is the PT5000 automatic movement, a Chinese-made caliber that has earned a reputation in watch forums for being a reliable homage to the Swiss ETA 2824-2. The PT5000 beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour (vph), delivering a smooth sweep of the seconds hand. On paper, it offers a 42-hour power reserve, though in my experience, my particular unit topped out closer to 38 hours. Nevertheless, the performance is respectable.
In terms of accuracy, my TD225 has been running at a rate of +10 to +15 seconds per day. While this is not chronometer-level precision, it is more than acceptable for a mechanical movement at this price tier. Additionally, the movement supports hacking seconds, allowing for precise time-setting. Many watches at a similar or even higher price point often lack this small but important feature. Overall, the PT5000 offers a compelling balance between affordability, functionality, and reliability.
Turning now to the bracelet — the Achilles’ heel of the TD225. Despite featuring solid end-links and links made from 316L stainless steel, the bracelet feels flimsy and underwhelming. The finishing, in particular, leaves much to be desired. Polished surfaces appear wavy and inconsistent under light, detracting from the otherwise polished look of the watch. The hidden butterfly clasp is another misstep. While elegant in theory, it feels too delicate for a dive watch and lacks the solid, secure click that would inspire confidence during active use. It simply does not suit the rugged nature of the TD225.
There are, however, a few positives. The bracelet includes two half-links, which allow for a more precise fit on the wrist — a thoughtful touch that many other brands neglect. Nevertheless, I would recommend swapping out the bracelet immediately. A NATO strap, a high-quality rubber strap, or even a leather strap would better complement the TD225’s aesthetic and elevate the wearing experience significantly.
This issue with the bracelet is not unique to the TD225; it appears to be a consistent shortcoming across Tandorio’s lineup, as seen in previous models like their Doxa homage. Tandorio clearly invests more effort and resources into case construction, dials, and movements than into bracelet quality. If the brand were to address this one glaring flaw, their watches would offer an even stronger value proposition.
In conclusion, the Tandorio TD225 is a solid entry in the world of affordable dive watches. Its strengths — including robust case design, decent water resistance, excellent lume, and reliable movement — far outweigh its flaws. While the bracelet quality is undeniably disappointing, it is an easy fix for the end user. Swapping the bracelet for a better strap transforms the TD225 into a highly capable, stylish, and enjoyable everyday watch.
If Tandorio continues to refine its craftsmanship, especially in terms of bracelet quality, there is no doubt that they will increasingly challenge the dominance of more established players in the affordable watch segment. The TD225 is not a perfect watch, but it gets some amount right — and for $146, it is a compelling package that few competitors can match.
KaminskyBlog 