Previously, I had the opportunity to review the Club Campus 38, which at the time was the most affordable model in the Nomos lineup. I was thoroughly impressed by its build quality and overall execution—it truly stood out as one of the best everyday watches I’d encountered. Back then, I had also hoped to review the iconic Tangente, but review units were unavailable, as they had all been allocated elsewhere. Now that I’m back to reviewing watches more regularly—at least for the time being—I decided to reach out to Nomos once again. And guess what? They graciously sent over one of their new Tangente 38 Date models from the vibrant collection of 31 color variants.

As its sole release at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024, NOMOS Glashütte unveiled a striking collection of 31 limited-edition Tangente 38 Date models, commemorating 175 years of watchmaking in the German town of Glashütte. With one unique iteration for each day of the month—and each limited to just 175 pieces—the Tangente 38 Date – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte series celebrates both individuality and diversity within the industry. At the same time, it serves as a compelling testament to NOMOS’ mastery of color, demonstrating the brand’s ability to apply bold, unexpected palettes in a way that remains refined and cohesive.

Although the 38mm Tangente Date is a well-established staple in the NOMOS lineup, I initially had doubts about whether it could effectively support such an extensive range of color treatments. After all, certain hues naturally complement specific case designs better than others, and developing 31 distinctive and well-executed variations is no small feat—particularly when compared to the more modest number of colorways that typically define a collection.

I’ll admit, I’ve had a personal interest in the Tangente 38mm for quite some time. Since the early days of my watch collecting journey, there have been a handful of timepieces I’ve truly aspired to own—and among them, the Tangente stands out as the most accessible. So, when the opportunity arose to finally spend some time with one, it felt like the perfect chance to see whether it truly lives up to its reputation and if it fits into my collection.

Before diving into the review, I’d like to extend my sincere thanks to Christian at NOMOS for providing the loaner—your support is greatly appreciated. And a special thanks as well for the thoughtful extras—the playing cards and pencils will definitely find daily use at the office! The watch arrived in the signature NOMOS rectangular wooden presentation box—an exercise in minimalist elegance. Inside, you’ll find only the essentials: the watch itself, a polishing cloth, and a small envelope containing the warranty card. It’s a clean, thoughtful presentation that keeps the focus squarely on the timepiece, without any unnecessary frills. I’ve always appreciated this approach—it feels authentic to the brand’s ethos of simplicity and purposeful design.

First impressions? Very positive. While the particular color combination of this piece wouldn’t have been my personal first choice, it quickly grew on me. I have no issue with a hint of pink in a watch—especially when it’s executed with the kind of subtlety and taste that NOMOS is known for. Unsurprisingly, my girlfriend was an instant fan of the color palette—her enthusiasm may have helped sway mine a bit, haha.

What truly caught me off guard, however, was just how slim the watch is. Every time I handle a NOMOS, I find myself re-impressed by their ability to produce such thin, refined cases without sacrificing mechanical integrity. It’s a quality that consistently surprises me and reaffirms why NOMOS remains one of my favorite watch brands—a company that, in my view, is still underrated and too often overlooked by the broader enthusiast community.

At first glance, the case of the Tangente 38 Date looks almost deceptively simple. But beneath its Bauhaus minimal lines lies a finely honed sense of proportion and refinement. The case measures 37.5mm in diameter, with a slim height of just 6.8mm—a feat made possible by NOMOS’s manual-wind movement and clever engineering. The lug-to-lug span of 47.7mm makes the watch wear slightly larger than the diameter suggests, yet it remains incredibly wearable for wrists of various sizes.

The case is made from polished stainless steel and features a two-piece construction. This simplicity isn’t just aesthetic—it allows for slimness and lightness, two major contributors to the overall comfort of the watch. The finishing is pristine, with high-polished surfaces that reflect light cleanly and enhance the watch’s clean geometry.

The flat sapphire crystal on the front sits nearly flush with the case, maintaining the linear purity of the design, while the exhibition caseback allows a clear view of the in-house movement—a thoughtful choice, considering how visually striking the DUW 4101 truly is. With a water resistance rating of 3 ATM (30 meters), the Tangente 38 Date isn’t made for active aquatic pursuits—but then again, this is a timepiece meant for the desk, the gallery, or the café, not the beach.

Where the case is subdued and technical, the dial is where this watch sings. Each of the 31 limited-edition versions comes in a distinct color combination, some bold and bright (like “Poporange” or “Zirkus”), others soft and moody (like “Haifischgrau” or “Tiefseegrau:”). This is a daring move for a brand that has built its reputation on restraint, but NOMOS has executed the concept with tremendous care. The result isn’t a novelty—it’s a masterclass in how color can be used to express individuality within a disciplined design framework. The variant we have here is called “Katzengold“.

The classic NOMOS layout remains intact: printed Bauhaus-inspired Arabic numerals, a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, and most notably, a peripheral date window that floats just inside the outer edge of the dial. Unlike typical date windows that can feel like visual interruptions, the NOMOS date aperture feels integrated, balanced, and almost architectural in its execution.

One particularly charming aspect is the color-matching of the date wheel—some of models have a custom-colored date disc that either complements or sharply contrasts with the dial. It’s a small detail, but a powerful one, and it speaks volumes about NOMOS’s design ethos. But the example we have here features a white date wheel which actually works pretty well with the bright yellow dial and pink subdial. Despite the diversity in palette, each dial maintains high legibility, thanks in part to the crisp typography and rhodium-plated hands, which provide adequate contrast even against vibrant backgrounds. There’s no lume on the hands or dial, a deliberate choice in keeping with the watch’s dressy leanings.

At the heart of the Tangente 38 Date ticks the DUW 4101, one of NOMOS’s most refined and technically interesting movements. This is a manual-winding caliber based on the brand’s celebrated DUW 4001, but it includes an innovative and ultra-thin peripheral date complication. This date mechanism is what allows NOMOS to keep the watch so thin without sacrificing balance on the dial. Instead of a typical stacked configuration, the date ring runs around the outer edge of the movement, allowing the date window to sit far from the center. It’s an elegant technical solution that’s uniquely NOMOS—subtle, efficient, and never ostentatious.

The DUW 4101 features NOMOS’s Swing System, a proprietary escapement developed in-house, and a true symbol of the brand’s independence in movement manufacturing. The caliber is adjusted to chronometer-level precision, offering excellent timekeeping performance (though no COSC certification is claimed). Specs-wise, it operates at 21,600 vph (3Hz) and has a 42-hour power reserve. The finishing is gorgeous: Glashütte ribbing, perlage, sunburst brushing, and blued screws, all visible through the sapphire caseback.

There has been some ongoing discussion in the watch community about the perceived fragility of NOMOS movements. While it’s true that earlier calibers had certain vulnerabilities, it’s important to acknowledge the meaningful improvements the brand has made in recent years. NOMOS has clearly invested in enhancing the durability of its calibers—refining components and improving shock resistance to make their movements more robust overall.

In fact, recent feedback across forums and expert reviews has been largely positive, with fewer reports of issues and greater confidence in their reliability. For further reassurance, I had this particular Tangente examined by my trusted watchmaker, Imants Jansons, who had only praise for the craftsmanship visible through the exhibition caseback. As for performance, my unit ran exceptionally well—registering a consistent rate of +2 seconds per day with an amplitude of 310 degrees, which speaks to both the movement’s quality and the care taken in its regulation.

The watch comes paired with a custom-woven textile strap, available in either dark gray or light gray, depending on the dial version. The material is light, breathable, and slightly textured, adding a casual modernity to what might otherwise come off as strictly formal. The straps are made in France, and they feel both sturdy and refined. They taper gently and fasten with a simple signed pin buckle in stainless steel. The 19mm lug width makes the watch not that strap-friendly if you ever want to switch it up, but the drilled lugs make the process easy and tool-friendly.

Some wearers with smaller wrists have noted that the strap length could be a touch more adjustable, and perhaps an extra hole or two wouldn’t hurt. That said, the stock strap offers a great blend of form and function, complementing the watch’s airy elegance.

On the wrist, the Tangente 38 Date feels like everything a modern watch should be: thin, comfortable, versatile, and packed with subtle personality. The 38mm case (technically 37.5mm) wears perfectly balanced thanks to the long lugs and ultra-slim profile. Despite its dressy roots, the addition of the colorful dial and textile strap makes it casual enough for daily wear. The absence of a rotor (thanks to manual winding) means it feels almost weightless, a quality that only adds to its charm. Winding it daily becomes a quiet ritual, and the action of the crown—smooth and precise—adds tactile satisfaction to the experience. There’s also something deeply personal about owning a watch that’s one of only 175 in existence in your specific colorway. It turns a mass-produced object into something intimate, expressive, and quietly rare.

The NOMOS Tangente 38 Date – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte series is a bold, joyful, and technically sophisticated tribute to one of the most important milestones in German horology. While the core architecture of the Tangente remains unchanged, this limited run demonstrates just how adaptable—and emotionally resonant—the design can be.

At 2,020 EUR, you’re getting a lot: a truly in-house movement, German craftsmanship, limited-edition exclusivity, and a watch that’s equally at home in a design museum or tucked under a shirt cuff. But more than that, you’re buying into a story—of color, of creativity, of the enduring power of simplicity. For collectors and enthusiasts alike, this watch isn’t just another pretty face. It’s a reminder that evolution doesn’t require abandoning tradition—sometimes, all it takes is a bold new color.

Price 2020€ at nomos-glashuette.com