I love seeing watches that break free from the well-established, genre-specific design codes—offering an original perspective that doesn’t necessarily follow the beaten path. When it comes to dive watches in particular, this can be a real challenge, though it’s certainly possible. The dive watch template is simple and straightforward, which makes carving out a unique identity especially difficult. As a result, innovation in this genre often happens in subtle ways. It’s a category with deep, easily recognizable heritage, and many new watches—and watch brands—tend to lean a bit too heavily on those traditions, creating a somewhat homogeneous landscape of divers. The watch we’re looking at today from Fleux is no exception. However, it manages to bring something distinctive to the table with its own unique twist. Fleux was founded in 2023 by Edward, and today we’re examining the fourth iteration of their FLX series of dive watches.
The watch arrived in a sturdy cardboard outer box, housing a flat-pack travel watch case made from saffiano-patterned PU leather. Inside, you’ll find a warranty card and instruction manual, along with a strap-changing tool, a cleaning cloth, and a set of extra spring bars. I genuinely appreciate the minimalist and thoughtful packaging—it feels purposeful and clean. One improvement I would have loved to see is the inclusion of two slots in the travel case, which would make it more practical for travel by accommodating an extra watch or strap. My first impressions were very positive. I’m particularly fond of the vintage-inspired aesthetics and the well-balanced case size.
At first glance, the case of the Fleux FLX004 immediately evokes the timeless charm of the classic skin-diver silhouette. Measuring 38mm in diameter, 47mm lug-to-lug, and 14mm thick (including the crystal), it strikes an ideal balance for everyday wear. The case design is near-archetypal, with squared-off strap recesses and elegantly downward-sloping lugs—a familiar visual language pioneered by historic casemakers like Squale and later adopted by Seiko. Constructed from 316L stainless steel, the FLX004 features a predominantly brushed finish across its flat surfaces, contrasted by polished chamfers along the lugs and case flanks. The brushing is finely executed and consistent, lending the watch a utilitarian character that remains far from rudimentary. This interplay between finishes accentuates the case’s sculpted lines and lends a quiet sophistication—an early signal that the FLX004 is more than just a nostalgic reissue.
The bezel is another standout element. It’s a friction-fit, bi-directional unit with an aluminum insert designed to evoke the look of vintage bakelite. True to its minimalist aesthetic, the bezel is left sterile save for a single luminous pearl at the 12 o’clock position. While the bezel’s action is smooth and easily turned with a light touch—typical of this style—it’s not intended for precision timing. Instead, it serves primarily as a visual homage, reinforcing the watch’s vintage character.
Covering the dial is a high-domed hesalite crystal, an uncommon but deliberate choice in the microbrand dive watch space. Fleux opts for this material to preserve the warmth and distortion reminiscent of mid-century dive watches. Completing the case architecture is a generously sized screw-down crown, engraved with a subtle dive flag motif—an understated nod to traditional dive watch iconography that avoids feeling forced. With a water resistance rating of 200 meters, the FLX004 is fully equipped for recreational diving and aquatic activities. In terms of proportions, finishing, and execution, the FLX004 punches well above its weight class. It delivers a level of refinement and design coherence typically reserved for watches at two or three times its price, establishing itself as a serious contender in the neo-vintage dive watch space.
At the heart of the FLX004 lies its sector dial—an elegant tribute to vintage navigational instruments and military-issued timepieces. This layout does more than evoke nostalgia; it emphasizes symmetry and clarity, ensuring intuitive readability at a glance. The glossy black finish, paired with gilt accents, introduces a subtle sophistication that transitions effortlessly between casual and formal wear. Adding character and uniqueness to the dial, the gold-printed Fleux logo is positioned unconventionally at 10:30, balanced by the “650 feet = 200M, Automatic” text at 4:30. This asymmetrical placement may challenge convention, but it works—offering a distinctive design language without disrupting legibility or visual harmony.
Fleux continues its focus on function-first design with the inclusion of broad arrow hands—carried over from the FLX003. These bold, easily distinguishable hands maximize legibility, further enhanced by generous applications of Super-LumiNova C3 “Old Radium.” This particular lume was chosen over the more commonly used BGW9 for its superior nighttime visibility; the green glow of C3 is most readily perceived by the human eye, striking a balance between authenticity and practical performance. In short, the FLX004’s dial embraces simplicity and clarity, but never at the expense of beauty. It’s honest, legible, and as simple as possible.
Inside the Fleux FLX004 ticks the Seiko Instruments NH38A, a no-date automatic movement renowned for its reliability, serviceability, and practicality. Part of the well-established NH family, the NH38A was developed with simplicity and robustness in mind—qualities that make it a perfect match for the FLX004’s tool-watch ethos. Operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), the NH38A features both hacking (the ability to stop the second hand when setting the time) and hand-winding, two essential features for modern wearers. It offers a power reserve of approximately 41 hours, which is more than adequate for daily wear or short-term rotation. With 24 jewels and a straightforward construction, this movement is built for longevity and ease of maintenance, with wide parts availability and support around the world.
The NH38A is a no-date variant of the better-known NH35A, which eliminates the “phantom date position” found in many watches that simply disable the date complication. This gives the FLX004 a cleaner setting experience and maintains the symmetry and integrity of its sector dial. Fleux’s decision to use this movement underscores their commitment to functional, purpose-driven design choices that don’t cut corners. In terms of accuracy, the NH38A is factory-rated at -20 to +40 seconds per day, though my example ran at +9 to +12 seconds a day. It’s not a chronometer, nor does it pretend to be—but for a watch at this price point and philosophy, it is entirely appropriate. While not a movement that will dazzle collectors with decoration or high-beat performance, the NH38A is quietly competent. In the context of the FLX004, it reinforces the watch’s overall character: rugged, reliable, and thoughtfully considered from the inside out.
The FLX004 ships on a recycled SEAQUAL® sailcloth strap. This strap feels immediately more substantial and luxurious compared to many stock microbrand offerings. The outer layer is a rugged, tightly woven material that resists fraying and water absorption, while the inner lining is supple and padded for wrist comfort. At 20mm lug width, tapering down to 16mm at the buckle, the strap fits the case perfectly, preserving the watch’s balanced silhouette. It’s equipped with quick-release spring bars, allowing tool-free swaps — a thoughtful touch for those who love to customize their watches. In terms of performance, the SEAQUAL strap is ideal for active use. It’s breathable, dries quickly after getting wet, and shows minimal wear even after prolonged exposure to saltwater and sweat. The hardware — a signed brushed steel buckle — is proportionate and robust. If one criticism could be leveled, it’s that the strap could be marginally softer straight out of the box, but it breaks in rapidly after a few days’ wear. Fleux doesn’t currently offer a bracelet for the FLX004, but given the clean case profile and standard lug width, sourcing third-party options is straightforward for those seeking a different look.
The Fleux FLX004 is a masterclass in minimalism done right. Instead of overloading the watch with complications, textures, and “vintage fauxtina,” Fleux chose to emphasize purity, balance, and honest quality — and in doing so, they’ve created one of the best skin-divers on the market under $500. Perfectly balanced dimensions that fit a wide range of wrist sizes. Genuine 200m water resistance and tool-watch reliability. A clean, luminescent, hyper-legible dial with no date window clutter. Seiko NH38A movement delivering smooth, accurate performance. Ethically sourced strap materials that don’t compromise on quality.
In a saturated market where many microbrands merely remix established designs, Fleux offers something rarer: genuine restraint and intentionality. Nothing about the FLX004 feels accidental. Every design decision serves the overall experience of wearing a clean, capable, and beautiful dive watch. It’s not a watch for those chasing flashy specs or ornate dials. It’s a watch for those who appreciate nuance — who understand that real beauty often lies in what you leave out, not just what you add. At $499 USD, the Fleux FLX004 is a no-brainer for anyone who loves the skin-diver aesthetic but demands modern reliability. It’s a watch that could easily live as an everyday companion — tough enough for the beach, smart enough for the office, handsome enough for a night out. Few watches at this price point offer so much, so elegantly, and with so little fuss.
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