In the world of microbrand watches, it’s rare to find a timepiece that not only captures the romanticism of mid-20th century watchmaking but also delivers a product with thoughtful construction and heritage-driven design. The Kuoe Old Smith 90-002 Bronze, particularly in its 35mm case size, is a standout in this regard. Kuoe (pronounced koo-ay) is a relatively young brand, but one steeped in reverence for vintage horology. Founded in 2020 by Kenji Uchimura, the brand was born from a singular moment of inspiration — when Uchimura, studying abroad in London, wandered into an antique watch shop and fell in love with the classical aesthetics of wartime timepieces. This encounter with decades-old British military watches — the kind that have long lost their factory shine but retained soul in their patina — planted the seed for what would become Kuoe.

The brand’s design DNA is clearly influenced by the hand-wound and early automatic military watches of the 1940s to 1970s — specifically, the kind issued by the British Ministry of Defence and known today as the “Dirty Dozen.” Upon returning to Kyoto, Uchimura honed his craft in the Japanese watch industry before establishing his own workshop. With Kuoe, he aimed to combine classic European field watch design with the exacting standards of Japanese production. Now, among Kuoe’s offerings, the Old Smith 90-002 Bronze 35mm stands out as a particularly faithful homage to these vintage inspirations — not just in design but in feel, scale, and material.

The Kuoe Old Smith 90-002 Bronze is available in three dial variations: white, black, and brown. I opted for the brown dial, which, in my opinion, offers the most harmonious pairing with the bronze case. The rich, warm tones of the dial complement the CuSn8 alloy beautifully, enhancing the watch’s vintage aesthetic. Upon arrival, the packaging immediately reflected a distinct Japanese minimalism and attention to detail. The watch was presented in a linen pouch featuring the Kuoe branding, tucked inside a compact brown cardboard box. Inside, the watch head was individually wrapped to prevent premature patina formation—a thoughtful touch, considering how reactive bronze can be to skin oils and environmental exposure. The nylon strap was packaged separately, and the box also included a warranty card and a user manual.

My first impression was very positive. Although the 35mm case is on the smaller end of what I typically wear—especially with a 7″ wrist—it still works. It’s probably the smallest watch I can comfortably pull off, but thanks to the long, straight lugs, it wears slightly larger than its measurements suggest. What truly impressed me was the dial. The fine-grained texture, crisp raised Arabic numerals, and well-executed hands combine to create a visually striking and cohesive design. The overall build quality feels solid, and the level of finishing on such a modestly priced timepiece is genuinely commendable.

The first thing that jumps out about the Old Smith is the material choice. CuSn8 bronze, a durable and high-copper alloy often used in marine applications, gives this watch its old-world charm and living character. As the bronze oxidizes, it develops a patina unique to the wearer, further enhancing its connection to the vintage theme. At 35mm in diameter and 12mm in thickness, the case dimensions are almost unheard of in modern automatic watches. This size may seem small to many collectors — especially in an era of 40mm+ sports watches — but on the wrist, it wears larger than expected due to its 42mm lug-to-lug span and straight, prominent lugs. On my 18cm wrist, the watch wears surprisingly well—closer to a 37–38mm piece in presence. The clean, angular geometry of the lugs enhances wrist coverage and helps balance the smaller 35mm diameter, all while preserving the watch’s vintage-inspired proportions and unmistakable throwback charm. The case back is crafted from 316L stainless steel, fully polished to a mirror finish. It features engraved details including the model name and key specifications, adding a subtle but refined touch to the overall presentation.

The polished finish on the case sides is a smart design choice. Rather than opting for a brushed or bead-blasted surface typical of modern tool watches, Kuoe emphasizes the 90-002’s classical roots with a gleaming shell that will gradually fade under a growing skin of oxidation. This watch is built to age, and its changing look is part of the charm. The signed screw-down crown is another highlight — tactile, easy to operate, and a surprising inclusion in a watch with such vintage styling. It plays a key role in the 90-002’s 100 meters of water resistance, which is more than enough for daily use and occasional adventure.

One of the strongest aspects of the 90-002 is its dial design, particularly in this brown variant, which was tailored to pair with the bronze case. Rather than simply reusing the ivory or black dials from the steel models, Kuoe chose to go with a deep chocolate brown dial featuring a grained texture. This not only offers excellent contrast with the white applied Arabic numerals, but also reinforces the “aged warmth” aesthetic. The high-contrast indices, railroad-style minute track, and well-proportioned sword hands make it highly legible at a glance, while still retaining the warmth of vintage field watches.

The Swiss Super-LumiNova® on the hands and points on the railroad- style minute track are tinted in an “old radium” beige tone, giving it a faded, creamy glow that doesn’t clash with the aged aesthetic. In practice, the lume performs well enough for night visibility, though it’s not overly bright — but then again, that isn’t the point. The lume color and layout are more about evoking the feel of aged tritium or radium dials than maximizing modern brightness. The domed sapphire crystal further enhances the retro feel, with a light distortion around the edges and an anti-reflective coating that reduces glare. The dome adds visual height without bulk, a subtle trick that makes the watch feel more prominent on the wrist than its dimensions suggest.

Inside the Old Smith is the Seiko NH38, a dateless variant of the ever-popular NH35. This choice makes a lot of sense — it’s reliable, hackable, hand-wound, and easy to service. It runs at 21,600 beats per hour (3Hz) and provides a 41-hour power reserve, which is standard for this tier. Importantly, the NH38 helps maintain the dial symmetry — there’s no date window, no unnecessary complications, just a clean time-only layout reminiscent of classic field watches. Reviewers did mention the NH38 can be a bit noisy in operation, especially when winding, but this is a known quirk of the movement and not a fault of the watch’s construction. Accuracy of my example hovers in the +6 to +8 seconds per day range, as is typical for Seiko’s entry-level automatics. While this isn’t chronometer territory, the NH38 is known for being dependable, easy to regulate and affordable, making it ideal for a microbrands.

Kuoe ships the Old Smith with a nylon strap, reminiscent of a NATO but without the second pass-through layer. It’s a single-piece, no-pocket design that maintains the vintage feel while remaining simple and robust. Kuoe gives you 3 strap options to choose from, I chose the khaki with beige line in the middle. While the strap feels high quality and looks good, there was some disappointment regarding the PVD-coated buckle. While the color tries to mimic bronze, the effect leans more toward rose gold, which clashes a bit with the raw, organic tone of the bronze case. The 18mm lug width may seem narrow by modern standards, but it’s historically appropriate plus there are a ton of strap options at this size. I actually tried to put the watch on a leather strap, but to be honest, it looks the best on a nato style nylon strap! On the wrist the watch wears very comfortable.

The Kuoe Old Smith is a watch that understands what it wants to be — a faithful reinterpretation of 1940s military wristwatches, crafted in Japan with sensitivity, honesty, and intention. From the materials to the movement to the price, this is a watch that doesn’t pretend to be anything more than what it is: a compact, reliable, beautifully crafted timekeeper for enthusiasts who understand vintage aesthetics and small-brand authenticity.

For around €‌655, it’s hard to argue with the value on offer. The bronze case, domed sapphire crystal, Seiko NH38 movement, and 100m water resistance all add up to a piece that delivers far more than its price suggests. But what really sets it apart is the emotional experience of wearing it — the way the bronze changes, the dial catches the light, and the overall package feels like a rediscovered artifact from another time. This isn’t a watch that shouts. It speaks softly, with intention and charm. And in a world full of oversized divers and tech-heavy smartwatches, the Kuoe Old Smith 90-002 Bronze 35mm feels like an elegant counterpoint — one that celebrates simplicity, heritage, and the enduring beauty of classic design.

Price €‌655 at kuoe-en.com