Today, I’m excited to finally take a closer look at a brand that has been on my radar for quite some time—Gruppo Gamma. I’ve had my eye on their watches for years, but for one reason or another, I never quite managed to get my hands on one. They’re relatively under-the-radar in my part of Europe, and despite coming close—like nearly winning one in a last-second eBay auction—they always managed to elude me. Until now.
Gruppo Gamma was founded in 2013 as an independent watch brand, with a mission to create vintage-inspired tool watches that are legible, reliable, and built for daily wear. The brand’s name pays tribute to the elite Italian naval diver unit known as “Gruppo Gamma”—a top-secret force first deployed in 1940. These frogmen famously used modified pocket watches strapped to their wrists during underwater missions, and that historical legacy deeply informs the design DNA of Gruppo Gamma timepieces.
For this review, I’m taking a look at the Vanguard AV-10, a model that showcases one of the brand’s standout innovations: their proprietary aged finish on the case and buckle. Introduced in 2017, this technique involves a unique process—likely involving PVD coating followed by tumbling—that results in a worn, battle-ready look. Interestingly, this finish has since been adopted by other, even larger, brands (yes, including Panerai), but Gruppo Gamma continues to set the standard in this space. And honestly, seeing it in person, I can understand why—they’ve absolutely nailed it. Before we start the review I have to say Big Thanks to Gruppo Gamma for providing me with the review sample!
The Vanguard arrived in a compact blue zipper pouch, tastefully signed with the Gruppo Gamma logo. Right away, it’s clear that thought went into the packaging—not just in branding, but in functionality. I’ve always appreciated when brands provide packaging that serves a purpose beyond the unboxing experience. In this case the pouch is perfect for safely carrying additional watches, or once you remove the foam insert, even repurposing for tech essentials like headphones, chargers, or power banks. It’s a clever touch and far more useful than another cardboard/wood box destined to gather dust on a shelf. Inside the pouch, you’ll find the watch itself, a warranty card, a strap-changing tool, and in my case, a bonus strap to check out other colourways. The inclusion of a strap tool is a practical nod to enthusiasts who enjoy switching straps frequently.
First impressions? Genuinely positive. I was particularly taken with the weathered case finish. To be honest, I had my reservations—my past experience with “distressed” finishes (looking at you, Out Of Order) left me unconvinced. But Gruppo Gamma’s approach is on a different level. The aging is even, tactile, and adds character without looking forced or gimmicky. It gives the Vanguard a sense of rugged history, like it’s already lived a few stories. Design-wise, this piece ticks a lot of boxes for me. As someone who appreciates that iconic Panerai aesthetic, the Vanguard’s semi-homage styling hits the mark—bold, masculine, and confident without being derivative. And let’s talk straps: vegan leather isn’t usually my thing, but these? These are impressively well-executed. Soft, supple, and convincingly close to the real thing—definitely among the best I’ve handled in this category.
The Vanguard AV-10 features a robust cushion case crafted from 316L stainless steel, finished entirely in Gruppo Gamma’s signature weathered style. There are no polished or brushed accents here—just a uniform, rugged surface that enhances the watch’s tool-like presence. It’s refreshingly raw and purposeful. With a case diameter of 41mm, a lug-to-lug measurement of 49.5mm, and a thickness of 12.6mm (including the crystal), the proportions are spot-on. On the wrist, it wears slightly smaller than the numbers suggest. On my 18cm wrist, it feels closer to a well-balanced 40mm piece—a perfect sweet spot that offers solid wrist presence without overwhelming. At 3 o’clock, the watch is fitted with a prominent crown guard equipped with a locking lever mechanism, reminiscent of Panerai’s iconic design. Functionally, it keeps the push-pull crown protected, and visually, it amplifies the utilitarian appeal. The crown itself has excellent grip and action—easy to engage, smooth to operate.
Sitting proudly atop the dial is a box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, which adds a nice vintage charm while maintaining modern durability. It offers a subtle distortion at sharp angles, but without compromising legibility. Flipping the watch over, you’ll find a solid screw-in caseback engraved with specifications around its perimeter. It’s clean, straightforward, and in line with the watch’s no-nonsense design philosophy. With a water resistance rating of 100 meters (10 ATM), the Vanguard is well-equipped for everyday wear, including light swimming or casual aquatic activities. All in all, the case design and build quality reflect Gruppo Gamma’s commitment to producing serious, adventure-ready timepieces—with just the right dose of vintage soul.
One of the standout features of the Vanguard AV-10 is undoubtedly its dial. Gruppo Gamma has taken the classic sandwich dial concept and given it a bold, modern twist—crafting the top layer from forged carbon. The sandwich construction consists of a luminous base layer with cutouts on the top layer for the Arabic numerals and hour markers, allowing the lume beneath to glow through. It’s a technique reminiscent of Panerai’s iconic dial design, but Gruppo Gamma takes it a step further: the forged carbon itself is infused with luminous pigment. Yes, the actual dial material glows. It might not add any practical functionality, but let’s be honest—it looks absolutely stunning in the dark and gives the watch an otherworldly presence.
The branding is kept minimal and clean. At 12 o’clock, the Gruppo Gamma logo is printed in crisp white, while the model name and 100m depth rating sit unobtrusively at 6 o’clock in red & white, adding just the right pop of color. The hands are equally well-executed—hour and minute hands feature a sandblasted finish with generous lume application, perfectly complementing the rugged aesthetic. The red seconds hand ties in nicely with the red model name and adds a bit of visual energy. Legibility is excellent. The dial layout is clear, the contrast is strong, and thanks to both the sandwich construction and well-executed lume, it remains highly readable even in low-light conditions. The luminous-infused forged carbon isn’t just a gimmick—it adds visual depth and a modern edge that really sets the Vanguard apart from more traditional tool watches.
Inside the Gruppo Gamma Vanguard AV-10 ticks the reliable and ever-popular Miyota 9039, a movement that has quickly become a favorite among microbrands—and for good reason. Part of Miyota’s premium 9000 series, the 9039 is a slim, no-date automatic caliber that offers solid specs, everyday reliability, and great value. The 9039 beats at a smooth 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz), giving the seconds hand a pleasing sweep that rivals much pricier Swiss movements. It features 24 jewels, hacking seconds (so you can set the time precisely), and hand-winding capability, which adds that satisfying tactile experience watch lovers appreciate.
Power reserve sits at a healthy 42 hours, which is more than enough to get you through a day or two off the wrist. In terms of performance, my particular AV-10 is running at +5 seconds per day. The 9039 is tough. Unlike some of its Swiss competitors, it doesn’t shy away from a bit of rough-and-tumble. It’s built to take everyday knocks without complaint—perfect for a rugged tool watch like the Vanguard. Sure, it doesn’t have the fancy finishing or prestige of high-end Swiss calibers, but what it lacks in heritage it makes up for in practicality, precision, and durability. It’s the kind of movement that lets the design shine while quietly doing its job—consistently and reliably. In short, the Miyota 9039 is a great match for the AV-10: no-nonsense, dependable, and just a little bit underrated.
One of the definite positives of the Gruppo Gamma Vanguard AV-10 is the strap. The included light brown vegan leather strap is surprisingly impressive—it looks and feels remarkably close to real leather. Right out of the box, it’s soft, flexible, and comfortable on the wrist—no stiffness, no break-in period needed. While it lacks the signature scent of genuine leather, everything else—from the texture to the stitching—feels premium. The strap features vintage-style stitching at the lugs and buckle, adding a rugged, classic aesthetic. The underside is lined with smooth black vegan leather, and there’s subtle branding with the Gruppo Gamma logo and a stamp identifying it as vegan leather—a thoughtful and eco-conscious detail. The tang-style buckle is made of 316L stainless steel and matches the watch case with the same weathered finish. It’s also signed with the Gruppo Gamma logo, tying the whole look together nicely. At 22mm wide from lug to buckle, the strap maintains a strong, balanced presence on the wrist.
Gruppo Gamma also included an additional strap in green, allowing me to test both the versatility of the design and the convenience of strap changes. Thanks to the drilled lugs and the included strap-changing tool, swapping straps was quick and easy—just how it should be. I’ve always preferred drilled lugs, and this setup reminded me why. On my 18cm wrist, the strap fits well, although I did find myself using the last two holes—especially the very last one during warmer summer days. So, if your wrist is on the larger side, you may want to consider a longer strap. But overall, comfort, build quality, and aesthetics are spot on.
The Gruppo Gamma Vanguard AV-10 is a standout example of how a microbrand can deliver big on design, quality, and character. This isn’t just another vintage-inspired piece—it’s a watch with a clear identity and a bold personality that shines through in every detail. The weathered case finish sets the tone immediately—rugged, confident, and refreshingly different. It avoids the overdone “distressed” look and instead feels purposeful, almost like the watch has seen some action but is still ready for more. Combine that with the forged carbon sandwich dial infused with lume, and you’ve got something genuinely eye-catching, both in daylight and low light. It’s not just a gimmick—it adds texture, depth, and a cool-factor you don’t often see in this segment.
The Miyota 9039 movement is another highlight—accurate, smooth, and well-suited for daily wear. My sample runs at a tidy +5 seconds a day, which is more than respectable. It’s reliable and tough, a perfect match for the AV-10’s tool-watch DNA. Even the vegan leather straps impressed me—comfortable, well-constructed, and stylish. All in all, the Vanguard AV-10 is a great package: unique design, solid specs, and just the right mix of modern execution and vintage soul. If you’re after something that feels different, functions well, and doesn’t follow every trend in the book, Gruppo Gamma might just be your next favorite under-the-radar brand.
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