Microbrands are about the only thing in this world that still give me goosebumps. Bonus points if the microbrand is Japanese. So you can deduce the emotions I got after getting my hands on one of Kuoe Kyoto’s boldest and most unexpected watches: their first dive watch, the Sombrero 90-011. Even more so, the one with the salmon pink linen dial. This is not just another diver. It’s a deliberate shift in direction for Kuoe—a brand known until now for compact, vintage-inspired field watches and gentleman’s pieces in the 35 mm territory. With the Sombrero, Kuoe is saying: “Yes, we can play in the big boy’s pool, but we’ll do it our way.” And that’s exactly what makes this watch so fascinating. We have already reviewed Old Smith 90-002 Bronze from Kuoe and I was really impressed!

The watch arrived in a simple cardboard outer box, but inside was a genuine surprise: a beautifully made brown leather travel case that housed the timepiece itself. Alongside the watch, Kuoe included a warranty card, instruction manual, a screwdriver for bracelet adjustment, and an additional leather strap. It’s clear Kuoe has put real thought into presentation. I particularly appreciate this style of packaging—functional rather than wasteful. The outer cardboard can be discarded, while the leather travel case remains a practical accessory, perfect for safe storage at home or for carrying the watch on trips. As for first impressions, they were overwhelmingly positive. The 38 mm case size felt just right, and the finishing quality was immediately apparent. The only surprise was the thickness: despite the modest diameter, the watch sits higher on the wrist than expected, giving it a more substantial presence.

The first thing to note: 38 mm case diameter. It sounds modest on paper, but once on the wrist, it hits the Goldilocks zone. Not too large, not too small, but perfectly proportioned. Kuoe has always understood wrist presence. Their founder, Kenji Uchimura, was enamored with mid-20th-century British field watches while studying in London, and that influence shows here. The Sombrero case feels vintage in intent but modern in execution. It’s compressor-style, which means twin crowns (at 2 and 4 o’clock) and an internal rotating bezel. Historically, real compressor watches used increasing water pressure to compress gaskets tighter the deeper you went, but here the design is aesthetic rather than mechanical. Still, it captures that old-school diver energy brilliantly.

The dimensions are as follows: 38 mm wide, 45.5 mm lug-to-lug, and 12.4 mm thick including the box sapphire. Lug width is 20 mm, which makes strap-swapping easy. On the wrist, it hugs nicely thanks to those short, downturned lugs. While the diameter and lug-to-lug length are very well considered, the thickness feels less refined. Ideally, the case could have been slimmer, but this is likely dictated by the dimensions of the movement itself. The finishing is where you can tell Kuoe is not phoning it in. The stainless steel case combines satin brushing on the lugs and vertical brushing on the flanks, offset with polished chamfers and bezel that catch the light at just the right angle. These transitions are sharp and confident. Turn the case over and you’re greeted by a screw-down caseback with embossed Sombrero text, specs, and a circular brushing that feels tactile and precise.

The screw-down crowns themselves are a highlight. Both are deeply grooved, oversized “cupcake” style crowns, easy to grip and a pleasure to operate. The 2 o’clock crown controls the internal bezel—smooth, with just enough resistance to align precisely. The 4 o’clock crown is for time-setting and bears the Kuoe logo. Both screw down solidly, reinforcing the 200 m water resistance. Here’s the kicker: the case is also anti-magnetic up to 20,000 A/m. That’s about four times the requirement for ISO anti-magnetic classification. Not Milgauss territory, but still impressive for a microbrand diver under $1,000. Overall, the case is a triumph. It’s compact yet confident, detailed yet purposeful. Kuoe didn’t just mimic vintage divers—they reinterpreted them through a Japanese lens of proportion and refinement.

Now to the star of the show: the salmon pink linen-textured dial. Let’s pause here. Salmon dials are already a niche that gets collectors’ hearts racing. Add linen texture—a subtle woven-like pattern first popular in mid-century Rolex and Omega pieces—and you’ve got something that feels both rarefied and familiar. Kuoe pulls this off masterfully. The salmon here is dynamic. Under bright light, it leans coppery, even with hints of rose gold. In softer, diffuse light, it goes pastel pink. And that linen texture? It’s not aggressive or distracting, but a fine, fabric-like shimmer that gives depth and tactility. When sunlight hits, the dial glows. It’s honestly mesmerizing. The layout is clean and symmetrical—another Kuoe hallmark. Applied steel indices mark the hours, with bold Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9. The mix of numerals and batons recalls military dials but dressed up for cocktail hour. Each index is filled with old-radium–toned Super-LumiNova, which glows green at night. The choice of “fauxtina” lume works here. White lume would have been too stark against salmon; the creamy tone complements it perfectly.

The handset is sword-style for hour and minute, brushed steel with full-length lume. The seconds hand is a fine needle with a lume pip and counterbalance. If I’m nitpicking, I’d say the minute hand could stretch a hair further to kiss the chapter ring, but legibility is never compromised. Speaking of the chapter ring, the black internal rotating bezel is fully graduated with hash marks, numerals every ten minutes, and an inverted triangle at 12. Text is minimal: Kuoe’s full logo under 12, and three lines above 6 (“SOMBRERO,” “Water Resistant 200 m,” “Anti-Magnetic 20,000 A/m”). No date, no clutter. The symmetry is spot-on. What I love most about the dial is its versatility. From across the room, it reads like a stylish pink dial diver—a rare sight. Up close, the linen weave reveals itself, like a secret shared only when you look closer. It’s playful yet refined, vintage yet fresh.

Inside beats the Miyota 9039, Citizen’s no-date premium automatic caliber. Some enthusiasts might no like the Miyota movements, but let’s be real: the 9039 is an excellent choice for a watch like this. Specs: 28,800 bph (4 Hz), hacking seconds, hand-winding capability, and a 42-hour power reserve. Accuracy on my sample was +5 to +7 seconds a day. It’s robust and easy to service worldwide. The omission of a date wheel keeps the dial perfectly symmetrical and reduces crown stem stack height, which translates to a slightly thinner profile. In a dive watch, that’s gold. Or salmon, in this case. Would a higher-end movement like a Swiss Sellita SW200 or a Japanese Hi-Beat have been nice? Sure. But at this price point, I’d rather have a Miyota 9039 with flawless execution than a fancier movement with cost-cut corners elsewhere. Kuoe clearly prioritized case finishing, dial execution, and bracelet engineering—and the watch is better for it. Bottom line: the 9039 is not glamorous, but it’s reliable, smooth, and a perfect fit for the Sombrero.

Bracelets are where many microbrands stumble. Not Kuoe. The Sombrero comes with two bracelet options: a flat-link and a Jubilee-style. My review unit came with the flat-link, and I can say this with zero hesitation: it’s one of the most comfortable microbrand bracelets I’ve worn in years. The links are short, fully articulating, and taper from 20 mm to 18 mm. That taper, plus the fluidity of the links, makes the bracelet hug the wrist naturally. Solid end links with quick-release spring bars add practicality. Sizing is done with single-sided screws (not pins, not collars—screws, as it should be). The clasp is milled, not stamped, with twin push-button triggers for security. It also has a four-position sliding micro-adjust, which means you can tweak the fit on the fly. Hot afternoon? Loosen a click. Cooler evening? Tighten it up. Every bracelet should have this. The jubilee-style option has its own charm—more dressy, more vintage-diver vibes. Personally, the flat-link fits the salmon dial’s playful elegance better, but it’s great that Kuoe lets you choose.

And that’s not all: in the box, you also get a German leather strap with curved ends. It’s supple, comfortable, and dresses the watch down nicely. My only gripe is that the curved ends still leave a slight gap at the case, but given the finishing quality, it’s not distracting. Strap versatility is another strength here. Throw it on a NATO and it becomes a casual weekend diver. Keep the bracelet and it’s ready for dinner with a blazer. The salmon dial ensures it never looks like just another diver.

The Kuoe Sombrero in salmon pink linen is more than just a debut dive watch—it’s a statement piece that shows how far Kuoe is willing to push its design language without losing its DNA. Up to now, the brand has built its reputation on compact, vintage-inspired field watches and gentleman’s models, but the Sombrero proves they can step confidently into the tool watch arena while still delivering refinement and charm. This isn’t a watch that tries to scream “diver” through size or bulk. Instead, it takes a nuanced approach: a 38 mm compressor-style case with thoughtful finishing, twin crowns that are a joy to operate, and a build that feels substantial yet wearable. The dial is the undeniable star—salmon pink with a linen texture that shifts and shimmers under the light, offering both playful personality and vintage elegance. It’s a combination you simply don’t see in dive watches, which makes it uniquely Kuoe.

The movement choice may not satisfy those who insist on Swiss calibers, but the Miyota 9039 performs admirably here, keeping excellent time and allowing the case to stay slim relative to its capability. And when it comes to wrist experience, the bracelets and additional strap give you everything you need. The flat link bracelet is comfortable, the Jubilee option adds flair, and the leather strap provides versatility. The clasp with the inclusion of a quick-adjust mechanism is a big win. At €‌935.00, the Sombrero faces stiff competition in the crowded microbrand diver segment. Yet, the thoughtful execution, distinctive design, and unmistakable Japanese sensibility set it apart. The fact that Kuoe packages it with a travel case, tools, and a strap only reinforces their commitment to value and customer experience.

So, should you buy it? If you’re looking for a run-of-the-mill diver, probably not. But if you’re after something that feels familiar yet refreshingly different—something that blends vintage inspiration with modern practicality and isn’t afraid to play with color—then the Sombrero is absolutely worth your attention. For me, the watch encapsulates why microbrands are so exciting: they can still surprise us. Kuoe didn’t just make a dive watch; they made their dive watch, complete with character, personality, and polish. And in the salmon pink linen dial variant, they might just have created one of the most distinctive sub-$1,000 divers on the market today.

Price: 940€‌ at kuoe-en.com