Founded in 2021, Mu:n (pronounced “moon”) is a French independent brand with a unique focus: creating refined, modern moonphase watches. Unlike many microbrands that prioritize affordable divers or retro-inspired field watches, Mu:n built its identity around one of horology’s most poetic complications. From the outset, co-founders Thibault Jungbluth and Victor Schouder positioned Mu:n as a company deeply committed to transparency and community engagement. Enthusiasts weren’t merely customers; they were collaborators, often voting on final design directions and participating in the development process. The brand’s debut, the Artemis Project, served as a proof of concept. It combined traditional watchmaking with an ambitious design centered on lunar imagery. But it was the follow-up, the Orion Project, that cemented Mu:n’s reputation. Named after NASA’s Orion spacecraft—an integral part of the Artemis program that aims to return humans to the Moon—the Orion embodies a blend of space-age inspiration and watchmaking tradition.

Initially launched on Kickstarter, the Orion was met with immediate enthusiasm. Now graduating from crowdfunding to the brand’s permanent catalog, it enters 2025 as a fully realized model. The watch is available in several dial colors, including limited-edition runs, but the subject of this review is the grey dial version. In truth, “grey” is something of a misnomer; in most light, the dial takes on a dusty midnight blue tone, shifting between charcoal slate and deep indigo depending on the angle. This mutable quality makes the Orion feel alive, never quite the same from one glance to the next. But color is just one part of the equation. The Orion is defined by proportions, textures, and above all, its luminous moonphase disc—crafted with cutting-edge femtosecond laser technology. With a retail price of 1728.00€, the Orion positions itself as a serious alternative to established Swiss moonphase watches, but with the creativity and intimacy that only an independent brand can offer.

The case of the Orion is crafted from 316L stainless steel, a tried-and-true material in modern watchmaking known for its corrosion resistance and durability. At first glance, the case architecture seems deliberately simple—no dramatic angles, no oversized guards, no experimental shapes. This restraint is intentional: it provides a timeless canvas for the dial, allowing the moonphase display to take center stage. Despite the straightforward silhouette, finishing is carefully considered. The majority of the surfaces are brushed, lending the watch a utilitarian matte character. This is punctuated by thin, polished bevels that trace along the lug edges and the rim of the bezel. These subtle highlights catch the light without dominating the watch, underscoring the geometry and breaking up what could otherwise feel austere.

The bezel itself is slim and refined. Rather than a bulky ring, it functions as a delicate frame that maximizes dial real estate. This minimal bezel, combined with the 38mm diameter, makes the watch appear larger on the wrist than its measurements suggest. It also gives the dial breathing room, crucial for a display with layered depth. At 3 o’clock, a signed push-pull crown features the Mu:n logo in relief. The crown is nicely proportioned—neither oversized nor fiddly—and easy to operate. While it isn’t screw-down, the Orion still manages a very respectable 100 meters (10ATM) of water resistance, more than adequate for daily wear. It’s a reminder that this is a poetic dress-style watch that doesn’t demand coddling.

Turning the watch over reveals a sapphire display caseback. Early prototypes used a closed steel back with engraved motifs, but Mu:n wisely shifted to exhibition backs for the production models. This allows wearers to appreciate the Sellita movement inside (more on that shortly). The sapphire is flat, with neatly engraved case details around its perimeter, and the watch maintains a balanced thickness even with two crystals. Speaking of crystals: the dial side is protected by a slightly domed sapphire. The dome is gentle, avoiding heavy distortion at the edges but softening reflections in a pleasing way. Anti-reflective coating ensures legibility in a range of conditions. Dimensionally, the Orion measures 38mm in diameter, 10.6mm thick (11.3mm including crystals), with a lug-to-lug of 46mm and a 20mm lug width. On paper, those numbers promise versatility; in practice, they deliver. The Orion wears compact and balanced on my 18cm wrist. The slim case, beveled edges, and light weight (approximately 57 grams without strap) contribute to comfort, making it an easy all-day watch.

Text is restrained, placed entirely below the hand stack to keep the moonphase unobstructed. At 6 o’clock, a circular date window is neatly integrated, maintaining symmetry without stealing attention. The star of the show, of course, is the moonphase disc. Mu:n partnered with AJS Production, specialists in micro-miniaturization, to produce this luminous lunar tableau. Rather than the traditional paint or liquid deposition method, Mu:n uses a Super-LumiNova sticker as the base, hand-applied to ensure uniformity. Over this, layers of acrylic paint are applied with a micro-spray gun, forming the canvas. From there, femtosecond laser engraving takes over. This cutting-edge technology, developed in the 1990s for microsurgery and optics, emits ultrashort pulses of light capable of engraving down to a micron (0.001mm) without causing cracks or heat damage. The laser sculpts away layers of paint to reveal an intricately detailed, hyper-realistic moon. Surrounding it, the Orion constellation and starry sky emerge with precision impossible by hand. By day, the moonphase is strikingly realistic. By night, it transforms. Thanks to BGW9 Super-LumiNova, the moon glows with icy blue light, each crater and ridge illuminated. It is arguably the most lifelike luminous moonphase disc currently available on the market at this price point. The result is a dial that balances restraint and spectacle. At a quick glance, it looks traditional. Under scrutiny, it reveals modernity, technical innovation, and poetic beauty.

Inside beats the Sellita Caliber SW288-1 M a, a manual-wind derivative of the ubiquitous SW200. This movement was chosen for its compactness (allowing the slimmer case) and its moonphase complication. It operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), with a 42-hour power reserve. The moonphase module follows the standard 29.5-day cycle, which is typical at this price range, and can be adjusted via the crown. Mu:n opted for the Elaboré grade, which delivers an accuracy of approximately ±7 seconds per day—a very respectable figure for a non-chronometer moonphase. The finishing is distinctive. Rather than Geneva stripes or perlage, the Orion’s bridges sport an engraved linear motif reminiscent of solar panels or spacecraft radiator vents. Black inlay accentuates the lines, gold lettering (“18 jewels”) adds warmth. Purists may scoff at the lack of haute horlogerie hand-finishing, but the effect is undeniably contemporary and thematically appropriate for a space-inspired watch. For many, an exhibition caseback is justification enough—the chance to observe gear trains, balance wheel, and the act of winding. Here, the movement serves not only as an engine but as a conversation piece.

In standard configuration, the Orion ships on a two-piece black coloured calfskin leather strap. Sourced from milk-calf leather” raised and tanned in France, the strap is soft, supple, and designed for comfort from day one. Integrated spring bars allow for tool-free changes, encouraging owners to experiment. The strap tapers from 20mm at the lugs to 18mm at the buckle, balancing the watch head nicely. The tang buckle, solid and engraved with Mu:n’s logo, feels sturdy and secure. There is also more color options available when buying the watch, allowing buyers to customize the look to match their wardrobe. The grey/midnight blue dial pairs particularly well with both black and navy straps, but also looks surprisingly elegant on lighter tan or even burgundy. For those seeking more versatility, Mu:n offers a five-link stainless steel bracelet as an optional upgrade.

The Mu:n Orion is not just another microbrand release—it’s a confident statement from a young company that knows exactly what it wants to be. By focusing exclusively on the moonphase, Mu:n has embraced one of the most poetic complications in horology and given it a modern, technically sophisticated interpretation. The grey dial variant, with its dusky midnight blue character, is a perfect example of how this watch manages to be both restrained and surprising: subdued at first glance, yet endlessly engaging as light reveals its subtle shifts in tone. What impresses most is the balance. The Orion is wearable at 38mm, thoughtfully finished with brushed steel and polished accents, robust enough with 100 meters of water resistance, and powered by a reliable Swiss caliber that feels thematically aligned with the watch’s spacefaring narrative. Yet despite this practicality, it never loses its romantic edge. The femtosecond-laser-engraved moon disc is unlike anything else at this price point, glowing with eerie realism at night and grounding the watch in its core inspiration: humanity’s fascination with the cosmos.

At €1,728, the Orion positions itself firmly in competition with established Swiss names. But where those brands often rely on heritage, Mu:n offers intimacy, transparency, and a willingness to experiment. It feels less like buying into a corporate catalog and more like joining a conversation with passionate creators. For collectors who want a moonphase watch that is genuinely different—technically impressive, thoughtfully proportioned, and emotionally resonant—the Mu:n Orion is one of the most compelling options currently on the market.

Price: 1728€ at mun-watches.com