Today, we are reviewing a timepiece from a relatively small and lesser-known watch brand based in Hong Kong. What makes independent Asian watch companies particularly intriguing is their ability to produce bold and innovative designs at highly competitive prices—and the Midnight Black from Mandetbrote is no exception!

While there is limited publicly available information about the brand—at least from their official website—what I could gather is that the company has a strong background in the watch industry, with over 20 years of experience in watch design and manufacturing.

But let’s shift our focus to the true highlight of this review: the watch itself.

The watch arrived in a black leather travel pouch—a thoughtful and practical choice. I appreciate when brands opt for functional packaging rather than simply providing another box that ends up collecting dust in storage. Personally, I use all my travel pouches when on the go or transporting multiple timepieces, and this approach is also more environmentally friendly.

My first impressions were positive. I received the black DLC variant, though the watch is also available in bare stainless steel with two black dial variations, two blue dial variations, and one green dial option. Additionally, there is a blue DLC-coated version with a matching blue dial. While I’m generally not the biggest fan of black-coated watches—mainly due to concerns about potential scratches and how they might age over a decade compared to bare steel—the finish on this piece is impressive.

The wandering hours complication has always been one of my favorites, alongside the moonphase and digital display. The last time we reviewed a wandering hours timepiece, it was from Behrens, but this one takes a slightly different approach, using domed numeral indicators rather than two discs. What makes it even more remarkable is the price—just $299. Considering that a decade ago, the most affordable wandering hours watch was likely in the five-figure range, this represents an incredible value.

The case is crafted from stainless steel with a black DLC coating, giving it a sleek and modern appearance. It has a round shape with a 41.2mm diameter and a total thickness of 15.8mm, including the crystals. While the watch appears medium-sized, it wears relatively high on the wrist due to the wandering hours module. However, it remains comfortable and fits easily under a cuff.

A high-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective (AR) coating sits atop the case, enhancing both durability and clarity. The exhibition case back features a flat sapphire crystal, allowing a clear view of the movement. Surrounding the case back, you’ll find engraved specifications, the Mandetbrote name, and the Limited Edition number, as this model is restricted to 100 pieces per color.

Positioned at 3 o’clock is a non-screw-down crown with a well-designed grip, making time adjustments effortless. The watch has a 20mm lug width, ensuring compatibility with a wide range of straps. With a water resistance rating of 50 meters (5 ATM), it is well-suited for everyday wear, handling activities such as handwashing or exposure to light rain with ease.

The dial is undoubtedly the highlight of this watch. Its style and layout bear a resemblance to a certain Audemars Piguet model—though with its own unique character.

This timepiece isn’t designed for precise time-checking but rather embraces a poetic complication. The three domed circles display the hours, rotating in unison while the correct hour on one of the domed circles aligns with the minute track at the top of the dial. At the beginning of each hour, all three circles rotate together, but only one shifts to indicate the new hour. Hopefully, that explanation makes sense—describing mechanical functions isn’t my strongest suit!

At the center, a thin, polished seconds hand sweeps smoothly, functioning as a traditional seconds hand. The only text on the dial is “Automatic” at 6 o’clock, which feels like a missed opportunity—I would have preferred to see the Mandetbrote logo or some branding.

For nighttime legibility, both the hour markers and minute track feature Swiss Super-LumiNova, which looks impressive in the dark but unfortunately doesn’t last very long, fading after about 1 to 1.5 hours.

Reading the time can be a bit challenging at first, but after some time, it becomes intuitive—you can tell the time at just a glance.

The Midnight Black is powered by the Miyota 8215 movement. While I would have preferred a 9000-series movement, the 8215 is still a solid choice—a true workhorse known for its reliability.

In terms of specifications, it offers a 36-hour power reserve, operates at 21,600 beats per hour (bph), and features automatic winding. However, to achieve the wandering hours complication, Mandetbrote had to develop a custom module to sit atop the base movement. They designed their own in-house micro chain-drive module, though details about its mechanics remain undisclosed, as it is a proprietary design. While I don’t know exactly how it functions, I have a general idea of its operation.

In practice, the time adjustment is smooth, and all gears move effortlessly—something I can’t say for Behrens, where the module gears tend to grind slightly when adjusting the time too quickly. It’s remarkable to see what smaller independent watchmakers are achieving today.

Just a decade ago, complications like tourbillons were strictly in the five-figure range, yet today, Chinese-made tourbillons can be found for under $1,000, split chronographs for $2,000, and wandering hours for as little as $300—all without compromising on quality. Even my watchmaker, who also mentors me, was impressed by the finishing on the dial and module (atleast the parts you can see), stating that it is far superior to what you’d find on Hublot or TAG Heuer.

If there’s one area where this watch falls short, it’s the strap. It feels like the least premium component of the package. The strap is made of black smooth leather with stitching along the perimeter, while the lining features a light tan color. It tapers from 20mm to 18mm and is secured with a tang-style buckle in black DLC coating, which is signed with the Mandetbrote logo.

While the strap is functional, I would have preferred something more visually striking—perhaps a more vibrant leather, a textured material, or even a canvas strap for added versatility. A deployant clasp would also have been a welcome upgrade. Even if the price were $50 higher to accommodate a better strap and clasp, I still think it would be an excellent value.

Overall, I really like this watch. I’ve always had a soft spot for quirky designs and unique complications, and this one is no exception. Of course, there are areas for improvement—it could be slimmer, a 9000-series Miyota movement would have been preferable, and a more interesting strap with a clasp would elevate the experience. But at $299, what more can you ask for? You’re already getting a five-figure complication paired with a custom in-house module that took time and effort to develop.

Would I recommend it? Absolutely—YES!

Mandetbrote also right now has a Kickstarter campaign for their new watch! Check it out! It is another mindblowing complication!