Today we are gonna take a look at a new and very interesting watch from a very cool microbrand watch company! The company is called Behrens Original, they are based in Honk Kong and make very beautiful watches with moon phase elements. In my opinion, their moon phase watch is one of the best in up to 1000$ price range, no one in that segment can beat it, as the moon phase looks so good! The Behrens name actually is taken from a German architect Peter Behrens who was a German architect and designer. He was important to the Jugendstil and modernist movement.
The watch that they sent me is one of their new watches from All-Round collection. It is a very multifunctional watch and while it looks classic and somewhat standard, it has some very interesting details only when taking a closer look. The watch was actually a Kickstarter project and their goal was just 6,386, but they got backed by 153 backers who pledged 73,617$ which was more than enough to make this watch a success! With this watch, their goal was to make something complex as their previously successful model called Moonphase had a very simple design. With this one, I think they stuck almost every complication they could with the help of the Miyota movement. The watch shows hour, minutes, seconds, date, day, month and it also has a 24h indicator in shape of a moving planet and a power reserve indicator. Also on top, they threw on probably the highest sitting crystal in any microbrand I know! The watch has three different dial versions: blue, black and sky with stars dial. Right now the watch is on pre-order on other crowdfunding platform called Indiegogo for about 535$ (the retail would be around 1008$).
The Behrens All-Round came in a very nice clamshell box. The box is covered with black leather and the inside is lined with this blue colour, very soft fabric. Inside you will find a warranty card, instructions and the watch! The first impressions of the watch were just wow! I was really impressed by how the case is constructed and designed, by the very thick crystal which sits so high that you can see the dial from the side of it and of course the many indicators it has and how well they all are executed! I’m just blown away by the watch!
The case of the All-Round is made of 316L stainless steel. The machine work is done exceptionally all the lines and angles are sharp and finished to the smallest detail! The finishings on the watch are a mix of satin-brushed and high polish. I like how every edge on the lugs and case are polished. The case shape is round with separately made lugs that are attached to the case. The case diameter is 42mm, the thickness is 13mm (with crystal which is 5mm thick by itself), the lug to lug distance is 51mm and the lug width is 20mm. I think they got the proportions right, some may argue that 40mm would be better, but in my opinion, the 42mm is just a perfect size for almost all wrists! At 3 o’clock we have a push-pull crown with a Behrens Original logo on top. The crown action is really good and very easy to grip it too. At 2 o’clock we have a push-button for the month indicator. The exhibition screw-in case back is very well made, I especially like that the edge of the case back is polished, it gives a nice contrast. The crystal on the back is a flat sapphire crystal and around it, we have some specifications engraved on it. Also, I have to mention that it is a limited edition to 100 for each colourway, mine is 33! And on top of the watch sits a boxed/domed sapphire crystal which is whooping 4,5mm thick, you can actually see the dial from the side.
The dial is just something on this watch. The dial itself is in this blue colour which is very deep, which in the light looks blue, but in darker situations, it looks almost black. Around the rounded edge of the dial, we have a minute track printed in white. At 12 o’clock we have a power reserve indicator. At 1 očlock we have a round date window with a matching date wheel in blue and it looks like it they even custom made it to match the font with the rest of the watch. Around the date window, we have a polished frame. At 3 o’clock we have a month indicator with a very cool way to show which month it is by rotating disk under the 12 holes, kind of reminds me of revolver where you put the bullets in. At 9 o’clock we have a day indicator and at 6 o’clock we have a 24-hour indicator which executed very originally with a rotating 3D earth! The dauphine hour and minute hands are polished. The stick seconds hand has a nice Behrens logo counterweight. Overall the dial is very nice, it is cluttered with a lot of stuff, but it is done really good where you understand what each dial, subdial means and that is usually not the case with many watch brands, even big brand tend to clutter the dial, but it is usually hard to tell even what time it is, here it is executed nicely!
Powering the Behrens All-Round is the Miyota 9100 automatic movement, which is well-known for its reliability and stability. This Japan movement functions with a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 A/h), 26 jewels, 40-hour power reserve, automatic winding and hacking second’s. This movement is actually rarely used in watches, I have only stumbled upon one watch that has this and it was in the same price range, these movements tend to cost more than the usual time and date Miyotas. My example is running at +8 seconds a day on average which for these movements is pretty great!
The only let down for this watch is maybe the alligator print dark blue leather strap. Don’t get me wrong the strap is somewhat good, but I just don’t like the alligator print, either put the watch on a real alligator strap or put it on a regular leather strap. Anycase the leather is pretty stiff, it will need some break-in period to be more comfortable on your wrist. The underside has this beige soft material and it is signed with Behrens logo and it also says it is an Italian Calf. The tang style buckle isn’t anything special, it is signed with Behrens logo and works like a regular tang style buckle needs. The one thing I love though is the quick release spring bars which make the strap change a very fast job as it takes less than a minute to change straps without the use of any tools and risk of scratching your watch.
Overall I really like the watch, I think they nailed the design and everything and the Crowdfunding campaign success I think proves it! Yes, the price isn’t a cheap one (I’m talking about retail, as the pre-order price is really good so snag it fast!!!), but it has a lot of things going on and you won’t find a watch with this level to detail and finishing and function for this price or less! So if you like this watch, better be quick to pre-order it now! I can 101% recommend this watch!
Case diameter: 42mm
Dial: Blue Sunray-brushed dial
Power reserve indicator
Stainless steel (316L)
Dome shape sapphire crystal
Automatic mechanical movement MIYOTA 9100
Vibrations per hour: 4hz (28,800 A/h)
Power reserve: 40 Hours
Accuracy: +/-20 seconds/day
Italian calf leather
Interchangeable functional catches
Water resistance: 50m (5atm)